Caucasus

2 essays filed from Caucasus.

Mount Ararat rises beyond Yerevan at sunrise.

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan: the pink city under Ararat

Yerevan is, in some lights, simply a small Soviet-modernist capital in the South Caucasus. In other lights, it is the cultural heart of one of the world's oldest continuous Christian civilisations and a country still working through the unresolved memory of 1915.

May 30, 2023

Old Tbilisi's wooden balconies stack above the Mtkvari river.

Caucasus

Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi: the Caucasian capital between Europe and Asia

Tbilisi is the rare capital that feels genuinely undiscovered for its quality. The old town has the sulphur baths and the wooden balconies; the wine culture is one of the oldest on earth; the country beyond the city is dramatic and almost empty.

July 28, 2022