5 essays tagged “religion”.
Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan is, in some lights, simply a small Soviet-modernist capital in the South Caucasus. In other lights, it is the cultural heart of one of the world's oldest continuous Christian civilisations and a country still working through the unresolved memory of 1915.
May 30, 2023
Varanasi, India
Varanasi is not for everyone, and it does not pretend to be. The city is dense, intense, ancient, and dedicated to a kind of religious practice that does not soften itself for visitors. The morning river, at dawn, is the experience that justifies the journey.
December 18, 2022
Paro, Bhutan
Bhutan is the only country I have visited that requires a daily Sustainable Development Fee (now US$100/day) and a state-licensed itinerary. The cost is the point. The kingdom uses tourism to fund its national health and education systems, and to keep the country from being overrun. It works.
May 28, 2022
Lalibela, Ethiopia
Lalibela's churches are not built. They are carved, downward, out of solid volcanic rock — eleven monolithic structures connected by underground tunnels, hewn over a century beginning in the 12th. They are also still in active liturgical use, 800 years on.
June 30, 2021
Jerusalem, Israel
Jerusalem is, for the visitor, two things at once: an extraordinary historical city of stone and light, and a place of unresolved political conflict that no honest writer can ignore. A guide that tries to do both.
March 8, 2021